TEXTILE FROM A TO Z
A
ABRASION – Wear and tear of fabric due to friction.
ACETINATION – Operation that consists of giving a smooth and polished appearance to a fabric.
ACID WASH – Denim washing technique typical of the two decades before the 2000s, characterized by harmonious stains that give an effect to the garment.
ACTIVEWEAR – Style of urban clothing inspired by the clothes worn in a variety of sporting various sporting activities.
A-LINE – The earliest A-line designs were created by Christian Dior in the 1950s. This style line for apparel is when the dress fits at the shoulder or the skirt at the waist and gradually flares out to a wider hemline, remember the shape of the letter A.
APLIQUÉ – Cutting shapes from textile fabrics and attaching them to another fabric or garment. The ornamental fabrics are frequently sewn to the base fabric, but may also be attached with adhesive.
APPLICATION – Accessory sewn or glued onto a piece of clothing or piece of fabric.
ASYMMETRIC STYLING – Designs where each side of a garment differs in structure are known as asymmetrical designs. In symmetrical designs, both sides are identical. Asymmetry can be prominently featured in various areas such as collars, necklines, closures, or hemlines.
B
BALLON SKIRT – Tulip skirt and bubble skirt can be similar concepts. This type of skirt is voluminous and creates a bubble (shape) effect.
BASQUE – A basque is an extension below the waistline of a fitted bodice or jacket. Unlike a peplum, which is short and flares out, basques can be any length, fitted or full, and positioned in specific areas or all around the garment. They are integral to the garment’s construction.
BATWING/DOLMAN SLEEVE – A batwing sleeve fits closely at the wrist but widens to be very full under the arm, resembling a cape from the back. The name comes from its similarity to a bat’s wing or a late 1800s coat with a cape-like sleeve.
BERMUDAS – A semi-casual garment and depending on the fabric and combination with another type of clothing, it can be used on different occasions. They are like shorts but a little longer, down to the knees.
BIAS/BIAS CUT – Bias refers to the diagonal direction of a woven fabric. Unless woven from stretch yarns, fabrics stretch more along the bias than in the length or width. Designers often utilize this stretch to make garments fit more closely or drape into soft folds. Renowned designer Madeleine Vionnet (active 1912-1940) was famous for her innovative use of bias cuts.
BINDING – A type of hand sewing by which the various pieces are temporarily joined. is also used to the pattern markings onto the fabric, in haute couture or home sewing.
BLAZER – A sport coat or jacket, with or without a collar, used in men’s and women’s clothing. men’s and women’s clothing.
BLOUSE – A more classic, sophisticated and fluid shirt, usually made for women. It can be made in different delicate fabrics and different colours. Worn over the torso, either loose at the waist or tucked under the waistband.
BOAT NECK – A type of collar or piece cut referring to the neck area. It usually has an oval shape and can be applied to different types of men’s and women’s clothing.
BOMBAZINE – Wool or cotton ribbed fabric with raised, shallow stripes.
BOTTOM – Garment that covers the lower part of the body.
BUSTIER – A bustier is a garment similar to a corset, combining a waist cinch and brassiere. It ends at the waist or extends to the hips. Originally an undergarment sometimes called a merry widow, it is now worn as a woman’s top, usually strapless and often made from highly ornamental fabric.
BUTTONHOLES – A buttonhole is the opening for a button to close a garment. To prevent raveling, it must be finished securely. Worked buttonholes are embroidered by hand or machine, with extra stitches where the button rests. Bound buttonholes, found on high-end garments, use fabric or leather strips sewn around the opening and pulled inside, often adding a decorative element if the strips contrast with the garment.
C
CAVE – Opening or slit in a garment, from the shoulder to just below the armpits, to which sleeves may or may not be fitted.
CHINO PANTS – Pants made of 100% cotton and ending in the ankle. Chino pants can be used as a more formal or casual garment, depending on its fabric.
COAT – A garment with long sleeves and an open front, but which can usually be closed with can be closed with buttons, zippers, clasps, etc., and covers the torso, slightly below the waist.
COLLECTION – A group of clothes projected by a fashion designer for a specific weather season or a special campaign for a clothing brand.
CONFECTION – The area of the textile industry responsible for systematizing the processes related to the production of clothing, in its different segments – clothing, household home articles, decorative articles, technical articles and others – in their different aspects of style and form, in accordance with current fashions.
CROP TOP – When a top or sweater ends above the waist is a crop top.
CROPPED – Short top worn with high-waisted pants and skirts. The fashion was widely used in the 1990s.
CULOTTES – Longer than shorts but shorter than trousers, culottes usually have a fluid fit and a straight cut.
CUT OUT – Style of clothing that has cut-outs and is open, with no transparent fabric underneath, with the skin showing, without transparent fabric underneath.
D
DART – A dart is a V-shaped tuck sewn into a garment to shape the fabric for a better fit around the body’s curves. Darts are commonly located at the bustline, back shoulder, waistline, and hipline.
DEBRUM – A type of ribbon that is sewn folded over the edge of a fabric in order to or to hold the weft together.
DESIGNER – Professional responsible for planning, designing and creating of a clothing model.
DRAPE – The way a fabric or garment hangs. It is the process of positioning and pinning fabric onto a dress or tailor’s dummy, to develop a more fluid structure. It is frequently used in haute couture.
DRESS – Women’s clothing generally worn over the underwear, and composed of a skirt and a blouse, forming a whole.
E
EMBROIDERY – Embroidery is the ornamentation of fabric using decorative hand or machine stitches, either in the same or contrasting colors.
F
FABRIC – A manufactured product, in the form of a flexible sheet, resulting from the interlacing of yarns or textile fibers in an orderly or disordered manner.
FASHION – While “fashion” commonly refers to current clothing styles, scholars define it with two key elements: (1) it is widely accepted and (2) its popularity is relatively short-lived. Fashion is not present in all cultures or historical periods but began in Western Europe during the late Middle Ages. Initially, fashion was set by the nobility, with lower classes emulating their styles—a concept known as the “trickle-down theory.” Today, fashion can originate from any social level, including the least affluent, a phenomenon known as “percolate up” or “bottom-up” fashion change.
FASHION TRIBES – Current fashion has shifted from a single universal style to diverse styles that reflect belonging to specific groups or “style tribes,” particularly among the young. Ted Polhemus is credited with coining this concept. Notable examples of youthful style tribes include punks, goths, hip-hop fans, and ravers.
FIGURINIST – Professional who presents the model created by the stylist. Professional who takes care of the costumes and designs the garments for the cast of movies. Often the costume designer is also the stylist.
FLAG – A small piece of fabric made as a sample.
G
GABARDIN – A twill weave fabric, with diagonal grooves on the right side, weight can vary from light to medium and it can be produced with natural or chemical fiber yarns.
GUSSET – A gusset is a small, diamond-shaped piece of fabric sewn into the underarm of a sleeve or the crotch of pants. It provides extra width and stretch in these high-stress areas, reducing the risk of seams tearing.
H
HAT – The term “hat” usually denotes a head covering with a crown and brim that doesn’t tie under the chin. Brimless or minimally brimmed headwear is often called a toque. Classic men’s hats include the fedora, with a wide brim and soft crown, and the homburg, which has a narrower brim and a stiffer, more rigid crown.
HAUTE COUTURE – Expensive, fashionable clothes produced by leading exclusive fashion designers. The expression “Haute couture” means the finest dress-making in the French language and it is used around the world.
HEMS – The hem is the finished lower edge of a garment, covering the raw edge. Common types include: plain hem that are turned up and sewn in place; rolled hem is a narrow hem for sheer or delicate fabrics, rolled by hand and sewn with small stitches; faced hem which is finished with an additional fabric piece sewn to the bottom, then turned up and secured to the underside.
I
J
JACKET – Short jacket, open at the front and hitting at or just below the waist.
JEANS – Heavy cotton twill fabric, 2/1, usually blue. Denim.
JUMPER – Women’s garment, similar to a dress, short or long, open with a large U-shaped or square neckline.
K
KIMONO – Part of the traditional national dress of Japan. Kimonos are loose-fitting, T-shaped and have wide sleeves, typically cut in one piece with the rest of the garment. Kimonos are full-length and wrapping to close at the front.
L
LABEL – Trims that contain characteristics or information about: name, corporate name or trademark of the manufacturer or importer; fibers and their percentage composition; size or number; tax identification; country of origin; and care for preserving the product.
LACE AND TATTING – Lace and tatting are created through knotting techniques. While most lace today is machine-made and can be produced as either narrow strips or large fabrics, traditional handmade lace falls into two main categories: bobbin lace and needlepoint lace.
LINE – One of many terms that have multiple meanings in the fashion world. That expression can be used to refer to the shape of a garment, or related to the collection of the clothing designed and produced by a designer or manufacturer for a particular season or period.
LOOK-BOOK – A book that shows the collection of photographs compiled by a designer to present their complete collection of clothing, accessories or footwear. They’re useful to help select key pieces for editorial or sale orders.
M
MANUFACTURED FIBER – A man-made fiber is one that does not occur naturally but is produced through industrial processes. Regenerated fibers, like rayon and lyocell, are derived from natural materials such as wood chips or cotton linters (short fibers that can’t be spun into yarn). Synthetic fibers, such as nylon and polyester, are created from chemicals.
N
NAPPING – A finishing technique, where the short fibers are lifted from the fabric surface to create a ‘nap’.
O
OMBRE – This refers to the style in which colour graduates from light to dark ones.
OVERSIZE – Garments which are of a much looser fit.
OXFORD – A basic shoe style that features a closure, such as laces or another fastening, is known as a “shoe.” While the styling and cut can vary, the term originally helped shoemakers distinguish between low-cut shoes and boots. Today, the key feature is the presence of a fastening.
P
PARKA – A coat with a hood, the length of which can go up to just above the knees, usually with a coulissé tied around the waist and made of lightweight fabrics.
PEPLUM – A peplum is a ruffle or flared section of a jacket or blouse that extends slightly below the waistline. It can be sewn to the bodice, integrated into the bodice as a single piece, or attached as a separate section to a belt.
PLEAT – A pleat is a fold of fabric, either stitched down or secured by another construction method, used to manage fullness. Pleats are commonly found in blouses, skirts, and pants, and often appear in groups.
POLONAISE – This skirt style involves an overskirt that is pulled to the side, looped, and draped over an underskirt, creating a puffed, layered effect. It is primarily used in evening and bridal gowns.
PRÊT-À-PORTER – Clothes made industrially in series, of good quality, and, usually signed by a fashion designer.
PRINCESS LINE – A garment style with sections cut in one piece from shoulder to hem, without a waistline seam, is designed to fit closely to the body. This close fit is achieved through strategically placed seams and darts. This style originated with Charles Worth, the fashion designer for Empress Eugénie of France in the mid-1800s.
PUFFED SLEEVES – Puffed sleeves (and later puff-ball skirts) are decadent ‘puff’ of fabric. The shape of this style of sleeves remembers the kings and is gathered at the top and bottom, but full in between, allowing it to puff up and create fullness.
Q
R
RUCHING – In current fashion, “ruching” describes fabric with gathered fullness that creates a rippled effect. Historically, ruching referred to a trim made by pleating bands of fabric and stitching the pleats in place, which were then sewn onto various parts of a garment.
RUFFLE – Is a decorative frill of lace or gathered ornamentation of fabric, often used to trim or embellish the wrist or neck.
S
SAMPLE – A set of several pieces of one or more products for commercial advertising. Showcase.
SEAM – In sewing, a seam is where two pieces of fabric are joined, creating a more or less visible line on the garment’s surface. The type of seam used depends on its role in the design, the fabric, and the seam’s stress level. Common seam types include: plain seam; flat-felled seam; french seam. Each seam type offers different levels of durability and aesthetic, suited to various fabric types and garment designs.
SHIFT – A shift dress is a basic style characterized by its simple, straight lines and loose fit, popular in the 1960s and during other periods favoring unfitted garments. A notable innovation in the 1960s shift dress was the addition of a diagonal dart running from the side seam to the bustline. In contrast, a sheath dress is also straight but fitted, utilizing vertical darts, bust darts, and side seam shaping for a closer fit.
SHIRT – A garment with long or short sleeves that covers a person’s torso. person’s torso, usually closed at the front with buttons, and worn directly over the skin or shirt.
SILHOUETTE – Outline or shape of a design or garment.
SKIRT – A garment worn by women from the waist down to a height that can vary according to fashion.
SOURCING – Sourcing textiles and apparel involves identifying where and how to obtain these materials, including determining the timing and method of acquisition. In the global economy, sources can be either domestic or international.
SPORTSWEAR – Originally referring to clothing for active sports and later for spectators, the term “sportswear” now broadly denotes casual wear suitable for any time of day and various activities. Today, “activewear” specifically refers to clothing designed for active sports. Sportswear is widely regarded as a significant contribution of American design to global fashion.
STOCK KEEPING UNITS (SKU) – Is an inventory management term used to track individual items. Each SKU represents a unique item distinguished by specific characteristics such as style, color, or size, allowing retailers to manage and monitor inventory more effectively.
STYLE – Style is the set of trends, tastes, modes of behaviour characteristics of an individual or group, with a view to certain aesthetic standards, which takes the form of “fashion” when analysed from the point of view of aesthetics and good taste.
STYLIST (FASHION) – A person who dresses (or advises how to dress) the clients in styles that she or he curates. This type of service can be requested for editorial purposes, for celebrities’ events, for branding purposes in marketing or other reasons.
T
TEXTILE – Fibrous materials of natural or chemical origin that can be woven. Their main characteristics are strength, flexibility, plasticity and fit. and can be processed in the form of braided, pressed or extruded sheets. extruded, and can be transformed into garments.
TIE DYE – Refers to a method of decorating fabric by tying string or other materials around selected areas to prevent dye from being absorbed in those regions. The tied areas remain undyed while the exposed fabric takes up the dye. For multicolored effects, the fabric can be tied in different sections and dyed with additional colors, with this process being repeatable. When tie-dye becomes fashionable, machine-printed imitations of these designs often appear.
TRAPEZE-LINE – Trapeze Lines were popularized by Christian Dior’s successor, Yves Saint Laurent in the spring of 1958. The trapeze line reinvented the A-Line, what had been the “most wanted silhouette in Paris,” with the same swing as its circus counterpart.
TRENCH COAT – Loose-fitting, waterproof fabric jacket, worn with a belt, against cold and rain.
TREND – A term often used in the fashion world to designate a trend for a particular shoe, color, garment.
TRENDY – An adjective used to describe someone who is very fashionable or some clothes or accessories that are fashionable at this moment.
TROUSERS – A single piece of men’s or women’s clothing that fits around the waist (or below it) and covers each of the legs separately, usually up to the ankles.
T-SHIRT – Close-fitting knitted T-shirt with a round neckline, no collar and short sleeves.
TUCK – Is a method of creating fullness in garments by folding the fabric and stitching parallel to the fold. It allows for controlled release of fullness and is usually narrower than pleats, often an inch or less. Multiple tucks can be used in one area and may be displayed as a decorative feature.
U
UNISSEX – Which can be worn by both men and women.
V
VIEW – Strip of fabric, cut obliquely to the weft and warp, used to finish off garments (armholes, necklines, pockets, hems, etc.) or as an ornament in cut-outs, collars, ruffles, etc.
VINTAGE – Clothing inspired from a previous era. Fashion and things belonging to the time 20 years or older can be considered to be vintage.
W
X
X-LINE – Celebrate the female figure: a small waist, emphasis on shoulders and a full hem following in the shape of the letter ‘X’. This shape or line is very popular in dresses and coats.
Y
Z
ZIPPERS – Zippers have two rows of ‘teeth’ that slide together to bind and fasten openings on bags, skirts or trousers. Zips can be inserted into a slash or seam with a closed end.
